LT1 Computer tuning

[Donk383]

 
I have a 94' Trans AM. I have been using CATS Tuner to tune my engine from everything from shift points to engine displacement.  Some of the settings I have changed effect running in the cold temperatures...  Now i run like crap, my old laptop died and I no longer have the original settings...  Has anyone else out there used CATS Tuner?  Do you have a stock setting saved?
Email me or call Douganderton@hotmail.com (801) 866-5282 Thanks!

[NVMYZ28]

There are lots of stock tunes floating around the internet.  You could take one of them to start with a new base line.  They'll have something specifically for a '94 A4

[thebrainhart]

I have a stock 95 Z28 A4 for Tunercat, I dont know what differences there are... Let me know if you want it and I'll email it to you

[Donk383]

NVMYZ28
I looked all over the net and was unable to down load one.  Thanks for the tip though!
--Doug

[Donk383]

thebrainhart
Please...  I would appreicate it if you could!  I have been battling with this ever scince the weather went south.  Your a stud thankyou!
--Doug
Douganderton@hotmail.com

[NVMYZ28]

Jump on cz28.com forums and go to the tuning section, someone there will have a stock '94 A4 file.  If you get the LT1 edit version, you can convert it to tuner cat version.

[thebrainhart]

thebrainhart
Please...  I would appreicate it if you could!  I have been battling with this ever scince the weather went south.  Your a stud thankyou!
--Doug
Douganderton@hotmail.com

Hey, did you get the file?

[Donk383]

Yep I got it. Thanks!
Still having the same problem though...  I run fine for 5 minutes, Then I start miss firing and running way too rich till it kills. Then it whole car has to cool down before i can restart it. I have already replaced the icm, ignition coil and optispark... From some of the reading I have done I think it is the O2 sensors...  They say if it isn't getting a read from them the computer will flood the enginge.
Any input?

[thebrainhart]

The O2s is what I was thinking. It seems to run fine when in open loop, the when it starts running off of sensors, it goes to crap.

A year or two ago, one of my O2 sensors' wiring connectors had corrosion in it, and suddenly started running horribly when switched to closed loop.  I was up in Idaho on the way back, and drove the whole way home like that.  I found that if I floored it (or close to it) it would run like a raped ape, without misfires.  Thats how I got home, nearly floored it for a little bit, and coasted with the engine limping, until I floored it again, and again, and again.

There's got to be some sensor screwing up, and my guess is it probably is an O2 sensor.  Any check engine light?

[Donk383]

Nope...  No check engine light.  Using freescan I checked for any trouble codes...  Nothing, however I get no read from the O2's...  I am about to rip the thermostat out to keep it cold, that should keep me in open loop as well.

[thebrainhart]

I am about to rip the thermostat out to keep it cold, that should keep me in open loop as well.

Doing that still may not keep it cold enough.  You should be able to unplug a sensor and force it to run in open loop, something like the MAP sensor maybe, or the O2s, or something to make it rely on internal programming.  I'm not sure if that would work, but its a lot easier than pulling the thermostat...
Does yours run ok when near WOT? Or do you not drive it enough to tell?

[Donk383]

It runs great at WOT as long as it is still cool.  The problem never showed up till I put the thermostat in...  Great idea on unpluging the O2's'.  I am in the middle of moving right now so it will be a few days before I can try it.  I'll let you know how it works out.
Thaks again
--Doug

[Donk383]

Replaced the O2's...  Still happening don't get it...

[Donk383]

Problem solved...  this is an odd one.
So after going through to the point I changed my FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and still having the same problem, with absolutely no doubt it had nothing to do with fuel pump...  I found myself looking back at the O2's (that have had less then 3 hours run time on them).  Couldn't think of why with free scan I still had no read on them.  So I did a bunch of reading on O2' and how they work.
An o2 sensor has to reach a certain temperature to turn on...  The LT1 Computer has default settings (that cannot be touched by Tuners, one of which is if the engine remains at temperature for a given amount of time, 5 minutes my best guess) with out the o2's turning on it goes in to limp mode and floods the engine. And with no o2 reading to say too rich it keeps pumping more gas. Making the problem worse.
So here is the question...  Why don't my o2's get to temp to turn on???  Simple AFTER MARKET HEADDERS!  I bought Edelbrock's ceramic coated headers.  I know everybody is going to say they will still get to temp...  Edelbrock's flaw by welding a nut to the tube instead of having a thread that goes in to the pipe moves the whole o2 back just over half an inch.  By doing so just the tip of the sensor is inside the tube, not having the surface area needed to turn on.  I am currently looking for better o2's that will fix the problem (that's what I get for buying the cheapest o2's I could find). 
So my temporary fix is to yank my thermostat out and drop my fan temp's (preventing the temperature at which the hard coded programming tries to force a read off the o2).
To anyone still reading my rambling on going car history...  I ask a question.  With cats tuner I know I can still force closed loop,  how will the engine react in closed loop with out any o2's?
Best regards, hope my blog here can some day help some one out.  Old forums is where I found a lot of my info.
--Donk 383

[DaBo_Z28]

Glad you figured it out     good to know what the prob was for sure